Kodama Forum

Polymaker PC MAX

What kinds of filament are you using? Where did you get it? What are your results?
Xorgeo
Posts: 27

Mon Feb 13, 2017 4:37 am  

3D printing started out great today, mainly because I discovered OpenSCAD and designed a simple C-clip. [OpenSCAD is great for the design, print, test cycle.]

I managed to print a few PC parts, however I did not get a single good part.

Settings:
    0.6mm nozzle, line width 0.6mm, no bottom support, 25mm/s print speed, 250 deg extruder temp, 80 deg heated bed temp
(Also tried a 0.4mm nozzle with a line width of 0.4mm)
(The nozzle to bed z-home distance was set to 0.4mm.)

Problems:
1) The extruded filament would ball up around the nozzle, to the point where the part could break away from the heated bed. [Perhaps the nozzle was too close to part.]
2) The layers did not adhere well together, to the point that they would delaminate when bending the clip.

User avatar
GentleGiant
Posts: 342
Location: Holstebro / Denmark

Mon Feb 13, 2017 6:06 am  

In all likelihood the temperature dropped below the 250 degrees, that's why you couldn't get enough layer adhesion - since it's recommended to print between 250 and 270 degrees.
People have had problems keeping the extruder temperature up, especially when combined with the heated bed, since the supplied PSU has varied quite a bit in performance.
A couple of things you can do:
* Try turning off the fan for the first part (this might only be possible in Simplify3D).
* Try printing and creating the fan shroud mod - viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1586
* Buy a silicone sock for the heat end (you have to enlarge the hole slightly and it's not going to fit 100% - Kodama will most likely get their own made, but for now this can make do).
You can get them from here:
Here's a Facebook discussion on them: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Trinus3 ... 253615415/

If you want to go all out, you might consider upgrading your PSU to something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC110V-220V-To- ... 2059755947
Pick the 12V 30A 360W option.
There's some discussion on Facebook about it here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Trinus3 ... 22R0%22%7D
Claus Olesen
Backer # 2,895
Denmark

Xorgeo
Posts: 27

Mon Feb 13, 2017 2:59 pm  

I'm hesitant increasing the power supply wattage, because I do not understand how this would affect the total design of the electrical power/thermal design. I would want a recommendation originating from the Trimus design engineer. I don't want to cause a fire or degenerate the life-cycle of the system. The silicon sock should help some, but my guess is that most of the heat loss is from thermal conduction back through the metal feed tube back up to the heat sink. Lowering the fan speed should also help. (I've been tweaking this settings.)
Lowering the print speed also helps.

I have notice that occasionally the 250 degree nozzle temperature drops down below 245 degrees. In general, however, I don't think it explains the bigger problem occurring (at this time).
Using a 0.2mm Nozzle has helped a lot with the delamination problem. It's probably not a perfect solution, but I can not tell for sure because, I have not been able to get a complete printout using a 0.2mm nozzle.

I can hear the nozzle rubbing on the extruded part before the ball-up problem occurs. This happens after about 3-4 layers printed. The nozzle needs to kept further away from the surface of the top extruded layer. I'm not sure what parameters to adjust to control this distance. :-(I've tried some things, but so far with no success.)

Any ideas?

Xorgeo
Posts: 27

Mon Feb 13, 2017 5:51 pm  

I went ahead ordered a 350w 12VDC power supply.
I'll report back on PC MAX in a few days.

Xorgeo
Posts: 27

Tue Feb 28, 2017 3:02 am  

After installing the 30A 12VDC power supply, the printer did maintain a constant 250 degree C nozzle temperature along with a 80 degree C bed temperature. However, so far I have not been able to print anything successful. After fiddling with the line width and slice thicknesses (all set to 0.2mm) using a 0.2mm nozzle (prevents the nozzle from scrapping the previous slice) and with a print speed of 40mm/s, the previous printed slice (layer 2) would get pulled up printing the third slice.

Next I will try printing with a raft. I have noticed that a raft tends to induce vertical waves in the slices, hopefully this will help the slices from getting pulled away.

Xorgeo
Posts: 27

Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:30 pm  

No luck printing with Polymaker PC MAX filament.
The Trinus max temperature is 250 degree C, which is at the very low end of the PC MAX temperature range spec (250-270 deg C). It would be nice if the Trinus was able to provide higher nozzle temperatures.

I'm starting to suspect that the nozzle itself also may be contributing to the filament pull-up problem. It appears that the extruded filament is getting pulled into a loop as it escapes the nozzle orifice.

Pomvat
Posts: 160

Thu Mar 02, 2017 1:02 pm  

Xorgeo wrote:After fiddling with the line width and slice thicknesses (all set to 0.2mm) using a 0.2mm nozzle (prevents the nozzle from scrapping the previous slice) and with a print speed of 40mm/s, the previous printed slice (layer 2) would get pulled up printing the third slice.


..besides all the other problems the trinus has, 0.2 layer height with a 0.2 nozzle at 40 mm/s printing speed with a high viscous filament is far too much. The trinus has a serious hot end / cold end extrusion problem. Start with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.1 mm layer height and max. 20 mm/s. Use a raft to get the 1st layer done.

Xorgeo
Posts: 27

Sat Apr 22, 2017 5:20 pm  

I finally printed my first successful PC Max filament part: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2041586
The configuration used:
0.4mm nozzle
Adjusted bed height=0.4mm
Slice: Thickness 0.1, Initial thickness= 0.15
Part: Line=0.4, Bottom=Raft, Support: [Margin=0.6, Extent=3, Radius=8], Wall=2, Raft [Extent=5, Radius=15, Width=1.6, Base=0.28, surface=2, Gap=0.25]
Action: Fan enabled, Speed=50%, Max=100%
Speed: Travel=30, Print=18, Initial=11, Outer=0, Inner=0, Infill=0, Skin=0, Support=18
Infill: Rate=25%, Overlap=0, Smart enabled
Cool down: Time=0, Min speed=10%
Code: Filament=1.76
Temperature: Extrude=250, Bed=80, Raft=250 *
Retract length=2
Start at height=0, Pause at=0

* There is a controller firmware bug when a Raft support is selected the temperature of the bed drops to 240 Celsius even when it is set to 250 degrees.
Therefore a manually override was done to set the raft extrusion back to 250 degrees.

Xorgeo
Posts: 27

Sun Oct 01, 2017 2:15 pm  

I have been dealing with more PC Max warping problems. Two breakthroughs have been:
1) Used 5 inch Kapton tap with glue stick spread onto the top of the Kapton tape. This solved the problem I had with the raft support breaking loose from the heated bed.
2) Disable the Fan part cooling.

Slice: 0.15, Initial: 0.20
Print Speed: Travel=60, Print=30 Initial=15
Wall: 3
Infill: 20%
Bed Temperature: 95

So far so good with much larger parts. Printed a cube: 70mmx40mmx3mm with no warping.

Warping is mainly caused when the extruded filament's top surface cools below its melting temperature, while its bottom temperature remains above the melting temperature.

Note that the raft temperature continues to lower to 240 Celsius. Later on the part temperature gets set back to 250 degrees.
This probably is occurring due to the Pango slicer.

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