Kodama Forum

Polymaker PolyFlex

What kinds of filament are you using? Where did you get it? What are your results?
joness7
Posts: 1

Fri Jan 27, 2017 11:37 am  

Hi

Just got my first reel of Polymaker PolyFlex and having a problem.

The filament isn't strong enough to push into the hot end. The unsupported bit between the feeder mechanism and the hot end seems to kink and form a loop that expands as more filament is fed in.

Any ideas how to make PolyFlex work?

Thanks
Steve J


Xorgeo
Posts: 28

Fri Feb 10, 2017 12:37 am  

We need a way to share Pango config files.
I also had problems getting PolyFlex to print. However after experimenting with several parameters, managed to get a successful model to print. In the "Preference/Expert Settings", I set the following:

1) I did not use a support base (raft), because I have a heated bed, which I set to 80 degrees C.
2) I swapped out the 0.4 mm nozzle with a 0.6 mm nozzle and kept the thickness at 0.25 mm and set the line width to 0.45 mm. I think that the thickness controls the filament feed rate, however with a 0.6mm nozzle the push-back force was reduced. (A common sense guess.)
3) Reduced the speed to 25mm/sec [Reducing the speed rate affects the amount of force pulled on the extruding filament.]

Hope this helps.

If we could upload and share config files (in my case Polyflex.6mm.ini) then forum could converge on a reasonable set of config files for various filaments.

Xorgeo
Posts: 28

Sat Feb 11, 2017 1:35 am  

Today, I have not had any Polyflex printing success. :-(

The main problem has been that the filament gets jamed inside the print head, because it bypasses the feeding tube. I disassembled the print head and loosened the set screws holding the feeding tube and pushed the feeding tube closer to the knurled feeding cylinder. This seems to have helped to reduce the number of jams, but they are still occurring. I think that the feeding tube could be redesigned to be longer such that the filament has less room to get buckled-out pass the feeding tube.

Another problem has been that the extruded filament has not been adhering well to the heated bed. The bed temperature seems to have little effect on the adhesion. I've tried cleaning the bed surface with isopropyl alcohol, which did not help. I've also tried printing with and without a raft, both have had the problem.

The other problem is that the extruded filament tends to get balled up rather than laying flat. I've tried increasing the temperature and lowering the speed, however the problem persists. This problem could be related the adhesion problem described above.

Has anyone had PolyFlex printing success?

User avatar
drofnas
Posts: 603

Sat Feb 11, 2017 2:53 am  

Xorgeo wrote:Today, I have not had any Polyflex printing success. :-(

The main problem has been that the filament gets jamed inside the print head, because it bypasses the feeding tube. I disassembled the print head and loosened the set screws holding the feeding tube and pushed the feeding tube closer to the knurled feeding cylinder. This seems to have helped to reduce the number of jams, but they are still occurring. I think that the feeding tube could be redesigned to be longer such that the filament has less room to get buckled-out pass the feeding tube.

Another problem has been that the extruded filament has not been adhering well to the heated bed. The bed temperature seems to have little effect on the adhesion. I've tried cleaning the bed surface with isopropyl alcohol, which did not help. I've also tried printing with and without a raft, both have had the problem.

The other problem is that the extruded filament tends to get balled up rather than laying flat. I've tried increasing the temperature and lowering the speed, however the problem persists. This problem could be related the adhesion problem described above.

Has anyone had PolyFlex printing success?




Did you try printing the item that Afro3dprinter linked above? That will help guide your filament all the way past the gear that pushes your filament into the hotend.
KS #153, US West Coast

Xorgeo
Posts: 28

Sat Feb 11, 2017 9:06 pm  

I did down load an install the Afro3dprinter link above. I basically solves the filament buckling bypass problem.
Warning that when a filament clog should occur, your are in for a full scale declog operation. It happened to me while printing with Aluminum PLA filament.

My major breakthrough today was to realize, never touch the bed with your bare hands. Use latex gloves or equivalent. There are complex organic chemical processes going on between the filament, heat, bed, and etc. that affect the adhesion of the filament to the bed. Do not even touch the filament with your bare hands...

To get around the Polyflex bed adhesion problem, I'm trying using the Polymaker PLA filament just for the first layer of the raft; swapping out to the Ployflex filament to complete the printing. So far, so good.

There could be a way to have Pango automatically to stop a a particular layer, however thus far I have not found any detailed description for the various "Expert Settings" parameters and what they effect...

I'll report more later. I takes hours to print a single part, therefore it takes time to provide feedback.
However, the Afro3dprinter Thingiverse link object appears to be a real winner... :-)
Thank you, very much!

Xorgeo
Posts: 28

Sun Feb 12, 2017 4:08 am  

My Polyflex part took 6 hours to print and turn out great. :-)
Using the standard PLA filament for the raft, worked out great, except that I should have used it for the complete raft, rather than just for the first raft layer. The layer between the two filaments types separated cleanly, but the Polyflex raft layer was more difficult to separate.

Settings used: Nozzle=0.4mm, Raft Thickness=0.25mm, Print Speed=30mm/s, Support Speed=30mm/s,Extruder Temperature=230deg, Raft Temperature=210deg

Can someone please explain the "Height/Pause at Height" parameter and provide some value examples?

Xorgeo
Posts: 28

Tue Oct 17, 2017 1:06 pm  

The following Polyflex Trinus configuration worked better for faster printouts:
Note: Used 5 inch Kapton tape (if necessary, use glue-stick) in order to help the filament adhere to the bed.

Expert Settings:
0.6mm nozzle
Adjusted bed height=0.5mm
Slice: Thickness 0.5, Initial thickness= 0.56
Part: Line=0.6, Bottom=none, Support=none, Wall=3
Action: Fan Speed=20%, Max=40%
Speed: Travel=40, Print=24, Initial=15, Outer=0, Inner=0, Infill=0, Skin=0, Support=0
Infill: Rate=30%, Overlap=0, Smart enabled
Cool down: Time=0, Min speed=10%
Code: Filament=1.76
Temperature: Extrude=225, Bed=60
Retract length=2
Start at height=0

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